My husband was able to repair his older scroll saw with this kit. If we hadn’t found this he would have had to replace it.

It fit perfectly

They are as advertised.

Lower blade holder hits frame on scroll saw, older Craftsman 16" saw, needed to make slight mod to left side of mount to clear.

I used this kit to retrofit a second-hand Sears 113.207600 scroll saw that was missing a blade holder (part 66019) and therefore inoperable as is. Replacement OEM parts for this saw are no longer available. [This saw model has cylinder or cylindrical arms (like open pipes on the ends) and doesn't readily accommodate retrofitting with the flat-arm type of new blade-holder replacements widely available like these.] This holder kit was relatively inexpensive compared to other kits in the marketplace that are readily available, and, if I could get it to work, it would allow me to use the more convenient pin-type scroll saw blades.To make these new holders work, in addition to removing the single old blade holder remaining (part 66019; #12 on diagram), I removed OEM arm cap (part 66009; #11 on diagram) and retainer (part 66024 ; #10 on diagram) from both top and bottom arms. They are no longer of use. Using the supplied black plastic spacers and u-shaped chrome-finished holder brackets, and a combination of allen-head or star-head screws , washers for spacing, fill, and support backing in critical locations, and nylon-insert locking nuts that I had in my supplies I made up replacement blade-holders for both arms. The replacement screws I used were larger in diameter than the ones supplied with the new kit but still fit in the through-holes in the chrome-finished holder brackets. I used the larger diameter screws to help take out as much slop as possible to prevent the holder from moving side-to-side against the screw. Using allen- or star-heads allows convenient access through the top and bottom arms and lets you hold the screw while tightening with a wrench the lock-nut on each of the separate holder brackets while they are in place on the arms. The black, pin-less-blade holders that come in the kit will work with this setup, too.Because the cylindrical shape of the arm and mounting location of the blade holders, I did have to use a Dremel tool with a grinding wheel (or file) to remove a little of the front edge of both chrome-finished holder brackets. This allowed me to adjust the holders and blade to be plumb and square to the table, top to bottom; otherwise, it is difficult to get the saw to saw straight and stay on a cut-line. Once the holders are set square to the table and the blade is plumb, they don't have to be reset. Blade change is simply dropping the tension on the arms and swapping the blade.The replacement holders work great (probably better than the OEM blade holders) and the saw is fully operational.